Dumbo: The Best Smash Burger In Paris?

Image credit: Marie Montagne, Picture of Dumbo Patrons.

After 37 minutes, slouched on a pegged stool among a coop of hungry patrons, white heat burning the back of my neck, and sloshing the remaining drips of water in my plastic cup — as the man in front of me at the water pitcher took all but two sips-worth — I received my 10-euro smashburger from Paris’s hippest burger joint: Dumbo.

But was it worth it?

On a glorious warm spring Saturday, I needed a colorful lunch, before joining friends at Canal St Martin to soak up the sun at the water’s edge. This is how I decided to test Dumbo, a 15-minute walk south of the canal in the fashionable Marais neighborhood.

I arrived late-afternoon at the lunch-joint, hoping to surpass the busy lunch crowd only to find a line snaking out the front door.

Outside, the restaurant had an open facade congested with Parisians and tourists on short benches. Some groups were jocular, others silent, and almost no one with a burger in their hand.

Inside, the restaurant was cool like a wine cellar. There was a cement bench along the left-hand wall across an open kitchen with two industrial grills and a pair of cool-headed chefs, and a wooden antique desk where a tattooed 20-year-old put our order into an iPad and danced to the restaurant's alternative bass-driven music.

Image credit: Marie Montagne, Picture of Dumbo Patrons.

To her credit, she warned everyone that there would be a wait and if that was ok — and I agreed. I was at a point of no return, if I didn't get food here, I would collapse outside short of death. And so, the wait began.

For the duration of the burgerless half an hour, I watched the pair of chefs make a minimum of 30 burgers eloquently. One chef pressed bright pink balls of beef into caramelized crisped slabs, tapered at the edges topped with melty American cheese. The other chef dressed boulangerie-quality buns with tomatoes, salad, ketchup, mayo and pickles. Even still, my mouth waters slightly.

Upon arrival, the burger was a godsend. Placed in a recyclable box, wrapped in a paper sleeve. I tore the paper off like a Christmas gift.

The first mouthful was vibrant. Crunchy, melty, salty and sweet. The tang of the pickle blended with the caramelized bite of the patty.

The French fries were secondary, but not dismissible. The size of a ring-finger, they were golden, crisp, and delightful when dipped in the creamy home-made mystery sauce in between burger munching. 

After a total of five minutes, I was done. Yes, I practically inhaled the burger after waiting on a rumbling empty stomach, but still the burger seemed a tad small for the price.

If you are looking for a burger that is cheap, quick, and consistent, Dumbo is not for you. But if you have the patience and eagerness to enjoy a delicately crafted smash burger, Dumbo is a must. 

And as a bonus, the staff were friendly, calm, and with-out-error in face of the stream of endless customers.